My Pacer Rebuild

[PeterL]

install some radio's, transponder and UBG.

Sold my old Narco AT50 and encoder and picked up a nice KT-76A with a newer encoder. I figured that this will go nice with the rest of my "newer" (sic) other King radio's. A Ky197 and a 155 nav/com.

The UBG Engine gauge is the one that the SW Club is trying to get a group discount on, just need 15 units to be purchased.

[PeterL]

Engine is "ON"

[PeterL]

Just got home from four days of flying at work, YYZ,MSY,ATL,MSP - all over the place. But had a good 5 days off before this pairing.Got alot done, picked up the rest of my parts back from the painter - they look great. All tail feathers are very nice, plus, all the inspection covers and fairings.
Started work on the instruments, replaced the D.G. and Hor. with new ones that came from my Tri-P. project. The air filter mount for vacuum was broken off, so I secured it with an aldel,(sp) clamp. They look great in there, however I think I will change out the air lines - look old.
Plus, I started on mounting the trays and did a dry test with the radios in. I have to keep the audio panel on the bottom because of the clearance. Should be good,hey.

Question I have is:
- with the engine mount, should the AN bolt at the firewall be a castle nut with a cottor pin- or without. The blue prints show without.
- and linseed oil for the struts, any hardware off the shelve kind ok?

Have the next 6 days off,so I plan for the wings to go on, flaps, ailerons. Some engine work.

Target is to fly to convention. Think I will make it???

[Troy Hamon]

Very cool, Peter!

I don't know...you may be cutting it close, but it sounds like amazing progress so maybe you will be done with time to spare...

The AD procedures make no specification about the linseed oil...so we bought some at the hardware store to do ours.

Can't remember offhand, but I have a hard time believing the engine mounts wouldn't have the nuts safety-ed in some fashion, I would use the cotter pins. It's a drilled bolt, right? May as well secure it.

[Kurts]

The bolts holding my motor mount to the firewall have castle nuts and cotter pins. And I just use regular hardware store linseed oil. Although as thick and gooey as that stuff is when dry, I fail to understand why you have to slosh the stuff around every two years. After a few applications it would seem that you're just adding dead weight.

[PeterL]

The blueprint calls for AN6-24
42 ED64 ELAS. Stop Nut

No mention of cotter pins and from of the pictures I have from various SW's shows that it is indeed ELAS type of nut.

[rwdurham]

You're going to mess around and have a flying airplane if you don't slow down! Look'n good!

[PeterL]

Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead.

[Jim Hann]

Question I have is:
- with the engine mount, should the AN bolt at the firewall be a castle nut with a cottor pin- or without. The blue prints show without.
- and linseed oil for the struts, any hardware off the shelve kind ok?

Mine has elastic nuts but I'd go with castellated/cotter pin. My wings were also on with elastic nuts, you don't want to know why I know. :-(

[pacer44k]

Question I have is:
- with the engine mount, should the AN bolt at the firewall be a castle nut with a cottor pin- or without. The blue prints show without.
- and linseed oil for the struts, any hardware off the shelve kind ok?

Target is to fly to convention. Think I will make it???

I have not looked at the drawings, but the bolts on 44K use castellated nuts. It would be hard to imagine that there is anything different that your premium hardware store linseed oil.
I am sure that you can plan to fly to Saratoga Springs, Peter!

[PeterL]

Thxs Mark, I'll go with the castle nuts since they are on and it is easy to change later. Did the Linseed oil deal, rotated the struts around for a few days.

Installed the wings on the 29th, trailered them to the airport from my house with the flaps and ailerons. Had help from the guys at the hangar hold the wings. Went on very nice.

[PeterL]

Thursday, big day--- Paul Gagnon flew up in his Pacer to help with the rigging. We used Frank Rush''s cd that is available on the SW store. All I can say as that if you are planning to rig anything on your SW, one cann't beat this great cd.

We followed his instructions to the "T" and the results were bang on!!!
Levelled the Pacer as per instructions, ran a line from wing tip to wing tip along the spar and found out that the distance of 4 and 7/8's was perfect from the line to wing attachment point. After, checked the dihedral at the front spars and it showed 2.1 degrees--close. We then checked the washout and had to adjust to get the 2.5 degree wash out,( of course using the 1 3/8' block of wood). Made a small adjustment to the dihedral to 2.0 degrees, checked again for proper washout and -----"PERFECT"
Paul had to fly home to beat some weather at home, ( a few TCU's -- what the problem, not a big deal!!!!).

I installed the ailerons and flaps and plan to rig today....

[dcflyer84]

Wow! You're gettin' serious with this thing! If only Experimental builders built with this much speed--we'd be overrun with RV-xxs, for sure! I just replaced my starter (old Prestolite)--brushes worn to limits, etc. O/H-exch was going to be over $300, so bit the bullet and put on a new lightweight starter--B&C Specialty Products. Highly recommended by my IA from past experience with this starter and SkyTec's over the years. It's a bit more expensive (like $200 more than skytec), but the build of it and warranty/factory support is unmatched and considerably more durable. Hopefully, this will solve my starting issues that were just about to ground me. IA thinks it will, based on what I've told him was happening and his experience (plus condition of my starter!).
Just FWIW, Peter, on the starter.

[PeterL]

measured the wing tips from the ground and the right side is 1" higher then the left. Hopefully the floor is not level.

[rwdurham]

Maybe your tape measure is off 1" on the right side, or perhaps one tire is shorter than the other, or with your landings one gear leg is spread more than the other, or . . . .well . . . I could go on and on. I'm sure it's the floor though.

P.S. I try to be helpful when and where I can.