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Thread: Cleveland Drum Brakes

  1. #1
    Stephen Butcher Guest

    Default Cleveland Drum Brakes

    I have just purchased a a PA-22 -150 1957. My mechanic is new to the aircraft too. During the inspection of the brakes he decided to change the brake drums, pads were fine. This was done. Now I have a strong pull to the left. We have bleed the system and adjusted the cams until we are blue in the face. It got slightly better but still pulls to the left. Any ideas?

  2. #2
    Kenneth Aasand Guest

    Default

    The cleaveland brake manual will tell you how to properly recondition the pads. I would recommend looking at their manual and I believe it will tell you to sand the pads with 200 grit paper. Then taxi at about 1700 rpm while holding the brakes. Do this for about 1500-1700 feet then let the brakes cool. you may have to do this twice. When done the pads should have a nice glaze on them and you will have better braking action.
    Hope this helps

  3. #3
    Glen Geller Guest

    Default

    Gents, Both of you used the term "PADS" when referring to the drum-brake SHOES.
    Although the procedure Ken described sounds like a reasonable break-in practice (pardon the pun), please verify that it is for drum-brake shoes, and not disc brake pads.
    I'm going to start a new post about brake fluid, looking forward to some sage advice.

  4. #4
    Kenneth Aasand Guest

    Default

    Here is a link to the Cleveland brake manual http://www.parker.com/ag/wbd/cleveland/pdf/main100.pdf
    Yes I used pads only because Stephen did and I wanted to use his termanology. cleveland has two conditioning procedures one for organic linings and one for metalic linings. It also has a good troubleshooting scetion which mentions reconditioning the linings

  5. #5
    Glen Geller Guest

    Default

    Thanks Ken, the link was very helpful.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Winnemucca
    Posts
    74

    Default

    Naturally, you've made sure that tire pressures are exactly the same on each side...

    Dave
    N3446A

  7. #7
    Glen Geller Guest

    Default

    Also check that the wheel bearings are free-turning, greased, and retaining nuts adjusted to prevent drag.

  8. #8
    Stephen Butcher Guest

    Default

    Thanks for your input. Yes I should have used the term brake shoes.Tire pressures are identical. We had already sanded the shoes and this did not seem to have any effect.
    I have tried taxing and dragging the brakes. This appears to have helped. It still pulls some to the left but is controlable with the nose wheel steering.
    Thanks Aagin for your input.
    Stpehen

  9. #9
    Glen Geller Guest

    Default

    Stephen,
    Let's get some background info, and try a few things:
    Why did your mechanic replace the drums? Be painfully specific, give details and his reasoning.
    Are the "new" drums BRAND NEW or USED? If used, did you inspect both drums visually and by touch verifying that the inside surfaces have the same finish? One could be glazed or pitted or who knows?
    Did you change just the drums (coffee cans) but keep original heavy support/heatsink rings, OR change both drums AND rings?
    Have you swapped complete wheel assy's left to right, does the drag switch to the right?
    Have you reinstalled the original drums, if so did the problem go away?

    Has your mechanic recently bought a nice new boat?

    Call your local Chapter officers and ask them to recommend a Shortwing brake expert to assist you at your hangar or his.

    Where is Lively, your member profile is short on details.

    GG

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